In Southern cuisine, the pairing of fish cakes with a flavorful greens salad offers a representation of rich cultural roots and distinct taste profiles. Central to this combination is the salad, which incorporates two varieties of greens: turnip and mustard. These greens have been prominent staples in African American households for centuries, often included as a mess of greens alongside collards.
Turnip greens carry a subtle bitterness, mustard greens present a mildly peppery flavor, and collard leaves are notable for their larger size. Each brings a unique note to the overall dish. Notably, Chef Mashama Bailey, the executive chef and co-owner of The Grey located in Savannah, Georgia, has played a significant role in elevating such dishes. She brought a similar greens salad to the forefront as the centerpiece at Harlem EatUp!, a cultural festival where her culinary presentation was highly regarded.
The recipe shared here originates from the cookbook "The Rise." It includes both the preparation of fish cakes and the accompanying Birmingham Greens Salad, which together offer a harmonious taste experience emblematic of Southern traditions.
Fish Cakes with Birmingham Greens Salad
Serves 4
Tomato Sauce:
- 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 1 small onion, finely diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus additional to taste
- 1 (15-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
Fish Cakes:
- 1 medium (6-ounce) potato, peeled and halved
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- ½ cup finely diced onion
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- ½ teaspoon curry powder
- 12 ounces salt cod, soaked, drained, and coarsely chopped
- 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
- Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
- 2 large egg yolks
- ½ cup mayonnaise
Birmingham Greens Salad:
- ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
- 2 tablespoons minced shallot
- 2 teaspoons sorghum
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
- 2 cups tender young mustard greens, washed and spun dry
- 2 cups tender young turnip greens, washed and spun dry
- 3 tablespoons coarsely chopped pecans
The process for the tomato sauce begins by heating olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Once the oil simmers, finely diced onion, minced garlic, and salt are added and cooked until the onions become translucent, which takes about 4 to 5 minutes. Crushed tomatoes are then incorporated, the heat reduced to low, and the mixture covered to simmer for 30 to 40 minutes. This cooking time allows the sauce to thicken slightly and eliminates any raw tomato flavor. Additional seasoning with salt can be adjusted to taste before setting the sauce aside and keeping it warm.
To prepare the fish cakes, the potato is placed in a small saucepan, submerged in cold water, and boiled vigorously until tender, approximately 20 minutes. After draining, the potato is passed through a ricer or fine mesh strainer and set aside. Meanwhile, 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil is heated in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, finely diced onion, minced garlic, salt, and curry powder are added and cooked until the onion is translucent. The salt cod is added to this mixture and cooked until the liquid evaporates, taking 2 to 3 minutes. This mixture is then transferred to a mixing bowl where the potato, Worcestershire sauce, lemon zest and juice, egg yolks, and mayonnaise are combined thoroughly. The complete mixture is refrigerated for 1 hour.
After chilling, the mixture is shaped into four patties. Using another tablespoon of vegetable oil heated over medium-high heat in a skillet, the fish cakes are cooked gently on each side for 4 to 5 minutes until they develop a golden brown crust and are cooked through. They are then kept warm until serving.
The salad dressing is made by combining olive oil, apple cider vinegar, minced shallot, sorghum, Dijon mustard, kosher salt, and ground black pepper in a glass jar with a lid. The jar is covered and shaken to blend the ingredients effectively. The mustard and turnip greens along with chopped pecans are placed in a mixing bowl, where the vinaigrette is poured over and the contents are tossed to distribute the dressing evenly.
For plating, the tomato sauce is spooned generously over the fish cakes, which are then served alongside the dressed greens salad.
The recipe and its cultural significance are underscored by Marcus Samuelsson, a chef renowned for his global culinary enterprises and community engagement. He is the co-chair of the Careers through Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP), which supports underserved young people, and co-produces the Harlem EatUp! festival celebrating Harlem's food, art, and culture. This recipe is an excerpt from his cookbook "The Rise," authored with Osayi Endolyn and published in 2020.
This dish exemplifies a connection to Southern culinary heritage through the use of time-honored ingredients and preparation techniques, brought to modern tables by accomplished chefs like Mashama Bailey and Marcus Samuelsson.