On Monday at Milan Fashion Week’s culminating day, a significant moment occurred in the fashion world as Giorgio Armani presented its initial menswear collection directed solely by Leo Dell’Orco, following the late revered designer’s death in September. The front row gleamed with celebrity presence including Ricky Martin and Hudson Williams, spotlighting the importance of this collection as a respect to Armani’s legacy as well as a look forward.
The collection maintained the hallmark Armani ethos of soft tailoring while integrating subtle signs of sharpness and up-to-date style choices, signaling a thoughtful evolution rather than an abrupt change. From the collection’s opening look, a distinctive color scheme emerged; a loden green top harmoniously paired with a textured jacket and gray trousers, illustrating a refined palette. Rich jewel tones—such as iridescent purples and vivid lapis blues—were effectively combined with luxurious fabrics including velvet, cashmere, and chenille, creating a tactile and visual richness.
The show featured staples recognizable from Giorgio Armani’s extensive design archive, including blouson bomber jackets and trench coats cinched with belts, which were complemented by straightforward white shirts and ties alongside the classic pleated trousers. The styling was completed with slightly crumpled fedora hats, adding a nuanced touch to the overall presentation.
Distinct from Armani’s usual practice of discreet finales, this collection was honored with a comprehensive runway walk as the audience responded with applause. Ricky Martin was notably attentive, recording the event from the front row, emphasizing the energy and dynamism palpable at the show. Alex Badia, who directs fashion and style at WWD, commented on the collection’s atmosphere, remarking on its vigor and the joyous energy present—describing it not as a new beginning but as a development hinting at a revitalized spirit within the brand.
Carlo Capasa, chairperson of Milan’s fashion chamber, praised the collection’s modernity and remarked that it truly embodied the Armani spirit despite the leadership change. As the event concluded, Dell’Orco, who has collaborated with Armani for four decades, was met with prolonged applause, acknowledging his stewardship in advancing the brand’s heritage. Visually distinct from Armani’s staple simple dark T-shirt and blazer of recent years, Dell’Orco appeared in a double-breasted suit without a tie, symbolizing his individual presence at the helm.