In the heart of Harlem, Kadjahtou Balde carries a tangible appreciation for the unique wardrobe pieces that line the shelves of her thrift store. Among her carefully curated collection are treasures such as a silk skirt detailed with traditional Palestinian embroidery, a soft pink woolen sweater, and a pristine embellished blazer that each tell a story through their craftsmanship. Unfolding a finely handstitched abaya, distinguished by turquoise geometric patterns — a garment integral to many Muslim women’s attire — she remarked on its exquisite artistry and admitted a reluctance to let it go.
Balde has nurtured a lifelong passion for thrifting and sustainable clothing. Yet, even within New York City's extensive landscape of vintage shops, she struggled to find garments that aligned with her dual desires of modesty and style as a Muslim woman. When her father expressed fatigue over his declining Harlem gift store, Balde envisioned transforming that space to celebrate modest fashion while supporting sustainability principles.
"My father expressed how tired he was," Balde recalled, "so I committed to helping him, ensuring that the endeavor would resonate deeply with my core values: Islam and sustainability."
In May of the previous year, Modify Thrift was established on Malcolm X Boulevard. It presents a distinctive selection of garments blending modesty with streetwear influences, evolving swiftly into a community gathering place fueled by environmental consciousness and a spirit of Muslim sisterhood.
The discourse surrounding Muslim women's clothing, focusing particularly on visible symbols like head coverings, has been a source of contention internationally and domestically, sparking discriminatory policies and debates about religious freedoms and Islamophobia. At Modify Thrift, Balde aims to dismantle the pervasive narrative that Muslim women's fashion is limited or restrictive.
"Muslim women stand among the most fashion-forward communities," she emphasized.
In a city still grappling with the aftermath of 9/11, where Muslim women who wear hijabs may encounter hostility, many choose to use fashion as a means to navigate social spaces unobtrusively. Balde aspires to shift this perspective by inspiring women to embrace styles that celebrate their faith while maintaining individual fashion flair.
"We're seeking to break down the walls that make modest attire seem constrained. It's about making it enjoyable and fashionable to be a Muslim woman — mastering the art of layering and styling to authentically express your values in a stylish manner," she explained.
While the modest fashion industry has expanded globally, offering more options than ever before, Balde remarks that much of this growth is propelled by fast-fashion brands employing questionable supply chains and ethical standards. Her business rejects this model, instead emphasizing the extension of garment lifespans through thrifting—a practice she regards as a spiritual commitment.
"My faith instructs me in stewardship of the Earth. Consuming fast fashion is incompatible with my beliefs. We must be responsible caretakers of our planet and communities," she said, also citing her leadership at Faithfully Sustainable, New York City's pioneering Muslim environmental justice organization.
For 25-year-old Harlem resident Hafeezat Bishi, who is refining her wardrobe to include higher quality items, Modify Thrift represents a meaningful alternative to the prevalent overconsumption culture, even among modest fashion brands.
"Visiting Modify allows me to reconnect with my faith grounded in justice. It feels like I'm contributing not only to my own well-being but also to the greater good of society and the environment," Bishi shared.
Meanwhile, others like neighborhood resident Ella Smith approach thrift shopping from a practical standpoint during times of financial strain, hoping to find singular pieces at affordable prices.
The inventory within Modify Thrift is mostly sourced through donations from Harlem locals, supplemented by purchased and consigned items. Staff members like Nabiha Ali, Assistant Operations Manager, meticulously evaluate incoming donations for material quality—with preferences for natural fibers such as wool and cotton—before pricing and displaying them.
Ali frequently engages with shoppers curious about modest clothing criteria. She clarifies that modest fashion often involves looser silhouettes covering the limbs and neckline but also embraces flexibility through creative layering, accommodating diverse personal interpretations and stages of modesty.
"This role taught me there is no single Muslim female aesthetic. Modesty is deeply personal and evolves individually," Ali reflected.
Balde’s vision for Modify Thrift hinges on fostering connections. Harlem, historically a crucible of African American cultural and sartorial innovation, remains vibrant with residents celebrated for their distinctive style, often showcased on occasions like Sunday church gatherings.
Prior to renovations, Balde invested time in personal outreach within the community, following strategies learned from her father, who transitioned from street vendor to shop owner in Harlem beginning in 2001. Their collaboration on the store’s rebirth began shortly after her childbirth, with moments documented and shared on social media, engaging a growing audience.
Beyond business, these joint efforts afforded Balde treasured family time with her father, deepening an appreciation for his dedication.
"He worked tirelessly to build a foundation that allows us to realize our dreams," she said.
Modify Thrift honors her father’s longstanding presence in Harlem amidst ongoing challenges posed by gentrification, which threatens the stability of longstanding local enterprises.
Looking ahead, Balde aspires to expand Modify's footprint, establishing thrift stores dedicated to modest fashion run by immigrant entrepreneurs across New York City's boroughs.
"Businesses should serve communities, not merely capitalize on them," she affirmed, underlining her commitment to sustainable commerce intertwined with cultural authenticity.