In a dazzling event held at the Paris Grand Palais, Chanel played host to a constellation of celebrities including Nicole Kidman, Dua Lipa, Penélope Cruz, A$AP Rocky, Gracie Abrams, and Margaret Qualley, creating an ambience reminiscent of a film premiere. The occasion highlighted Matthieu Blazy’s inaugural couture collection for Chanel, which radiated a strong thematic focus on joy and lightness.
The venue's ambiance contrasted sharply with the January gloom outside, transformed into a fantastical garden of vibrant trees and oversized pink and red mushrooms, crafting a surreal escape and an uplifting counterpoint to the somber global context. Prior to unveiling the garments, attendees viewed an animated short featuring woodland creatures busily crafting couture garments within Chanel ateliers, evoking a fairytale breath that hinted at the delicate tone of the collection.
Blazy’s creations articulated an aesthetic of weightlessness by gently reinterpreting Chanel's signature staples – the suit, pearls, and chain-embellished hems – into airy, almost ethereal versions of themselves. Classic pieces, such as a skirt suit, appeared sheer and elusive, tailored with such finesse it seemed as though the garments were composed of air. This marked a significant departure in how traditional tweed, often considered protective armor, was presented here as a soft whisper against the body.
Central to the collection were avian motifs symbolizing freedom and movement. Textures mimicked feathers, and delicate embroideries conveyed a sense of airborne lightness. The palette and surfaces fluctuated between vivid plumage colors and deep raven blacks, complemented by swathes of chiffon that imparted a fluid, gliding effect to the runway models.
The craftsmanship underpinning these seemingly effortless pieces was both meticulous and subtle. Couture's hallmark bespoke handwork, typically lavish and overt, remained hidden beneath an accessible and casual elegance, allowing the garments to appear beautiful without seeking overt attention. Blazy explored artistic trompe l’oeil effects, notably transforming a casual jeans-and-tank look into a delicate organza ensemble, blending the romantic with a hint of the unusual without abandoning wearability.
In a house known for cohesive, strong identities, Blazy introduced a personal touch by empowering models to select bespoke stitches or symbols to personalize their garments. This gesture fostered intimacy and individuality, shifting couture’s function from public spectacle to a silent, wearable personal narrative.
Blazy’s vision extended to casting, emphasizing diversity in age and background to evoke a lived-in authenticity on the runway. Bhavitha Mandava, who recently gained attention for her appearance at Chanel’s Métiers d’Art show, took center stage again, closing the presentation in a radiant bridal ensemble embellished with feathers, her confident smile underscoring the collection’s triumphant finale.
Complementing the creative direction, the soundtrack interwove eras and moods, juxtaposing whimsical Disney tunes with millennial anthems such as Moby’s “Porcelain” and a mashup of Oasis and The Verve tracks. The musical progression enhanced the atmosphere, culminating in palpable audience engagement and a celebratory aura.
Simultaneously, the couture week spotlight shifted to Armani Privé with Silvana Armani’s first collection as creative director following Giorgio Armani's passing. A veteran collaborator of over four decades, Silvana Armani’s debut collection distilled the brand’s essence into a refined, lighter wardrobe of approximately 60 pieces, departing from the typically larger shows.
The presentation favored softened tailoring featuring relaxed suits, sheer organza blouses paired with ties, and wide-legged trousers layered effortlessly for movement. Accessories were notably pared down, and hats – historically associated with the brand’s founder – were omitted, signaling a subtle departure.
The collection’s color scheme remained muted with celadon and blush hues dominating, focusing on restrained embellishments primarily through embroidery and selective use of sparkle. Evening gowns exhibited delicate crystal accents, poised with a featherlike weightlessness. Sequins were styled casually alongside trousers, while the finale showcased a black satin opera coat lined in green, worn over a crystal-embellished column dress.
The show culminated in a poignant homage through the public debut of a bridal gown designed by Giorgio Armani for his last Privé collection, serving as a lasting tribute to his legacy within the couture domain.